Truffle oil is usually flavored with chemical compounds that approximate the aroma of real Alba truffles. Photo courtesy D’Artagnan.
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KAREN HOCHMAN is Editorial Director of THE NIBBLE.
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December 2006
Last Updated August 2025
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Truffle Oil: The Truth
Page 10: Black Truffle Oil, White Truffle Oil
This is Page 10 of a 12-page article. Click on the black links below to visit other pages. See all of our delicious food glossaries.
Truffle Oil
Many of us who can’t afford regular helpings of truffle have been feeding our hunger with truffle oil, which imparts truffle flavor at a price almost anyone can afford. Did you ever wonder why an item that costs $60 an ounce (or more) can be sold as an oil for $1 an ounce, or why black and white truffle oils are sold for the same price when white truffles sell for twice the amount of black? The answer is something that even chefs at good restaurants are surprised to hear: Truffle oil is not flavored with truffles. Zut alors!
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Most of us think that the oil is made by infusing olive oil with scraps of truffle, and one or two artisan houses may do this, but their oil costs almost as much as fresh truffles.
The secret, known to everyone in the truffle oil industry, is that aromatic compounds (read: synthetic chemicals) with names like 2,4-dithiapentane emulate the flavor and aroma of truffles. Scientists have approximated the qualities of the truffle as they approximate the scents of fruits and flowers for potpourri and beauty products.
None of this stops us from using truffle oil to scramble an egg or make truffled mashed potatoes (though we prefer truffle butter for these purposes), toss with pasta, baste chicken, or drizzle over beef or game. You can also use it as a knock-out dipping oil; if money is no object, buy 8 ounces of Urbani black truffle oil for $35 or so.
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Colavita is an inexpensive brand with truffle flavoring from chemical compounds. Still, it’s affordable and fine for making truffle fries or truffle popcorn (photo © Colavita).
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Not all truffle oils taste the same, of course. Everybody’s “lab skills” are different, and some of those we’ve tasted do taste like they came from the lab. So it pays to buy the small size, for $10 or less a pop, until you find one you like; or invite your truffle-loving friends to a co-op truffle oil tasting party, where everyone splits the cost of the oils and foods (baguettes, sliced boiled potatoes, or more elaborate fare if you wish). You’ll go home drunk on truffle oil—but able to pass any breathalyzer test.
THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN CHEAPER & PRICER TRUFFLE OIL
You get what you pay for in truffle oil. The difference is a chemically-produced product versus an oil infused with pieces of real truffle.
Less expensive truffle oil contains little to no actual truffle. Prices range from about $8 to $20 for a 250ml/8-ounce bottle. These are typically made with neutral oil (e.g., olive, Canola/grapeseed, sunflower) plus synthetic aroma compounds, most often 2,4-dithiapentane, a lab-made chemical that mimics the earthy-garlicky smell of truffles. A mass-produced product, you can detect a “chemical” note in the aroma. The flavor is often one-note: strong, pungent, sometimes overwhelming.
Even brands that smell intensely “truffly” at first can taste artificial, flat, or harsh after a moment on the palate. |
For $30 and up, you should get an EVOO infused with real truffle pieces (photo © TartufoLangue).
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These oils are typically found on grocery store shelves and used to give flavor to truffle fries, burgers, etc., in casual restaurants. They’re used more as a punchy seasoning than a delicate accent.
PRICEY TRUFFLE OIL
Pricey truffle oil is made by infusing real black or white truffles steeped in EVOO oil, in small batches using artisanal production methods. The bottles are small, too, reflecting use for a hint. These can be divided into two price ranges:
Premium/high-cost truffle oils, ranging from about $30 to $80 for a 250ml/8-ounce bottle, are made with real truffle extract, not a chemically-created flavor. They are made in larger batches than the higher category, ultra-premium, and may or may not be made with wholly artisanal techniques. Examples include specialty Italian or French producers (Urbani, Sabatino, La Tourangelle’s high-end line [a Nibble favorite]). |
Even for $100, this 8-ounce bottle of EVOO is infused with “truffle flavoring compound,” which includes truffle extract. Read the labels! (photo © Sabatino).
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Ultra-premium truffle oils, ranging from about $100 to $200, are made in the smallest batches with true artisanal techniques and extra virgin olive oil to produce a balanced, nuanced flavor that resembles fresh truffles. They use fresh seasonal truffles (white Alba or Périgord black) steeped directly into EVOO in small batches. It is an ongoing part of the line, consistently offered year after year. They are used by high-end restaurants and sophisticated home cooks. An example is Urbani White Truffle Oil in EVOO.
They are used sparingly in fine dining, drizzled over meats, pastas, or risottos to add an exciting layer of flavor. They’re sold at specialty shops and online purveyors. But be sure to buy from a reputable retailer, whether online or brick-and-mortar. Fakes abound.
Limited-edition truffle oils are not easy to come across, but we mention them here to be inclusive. These are rare infusions of the best truffles (Alba, Périgord—more about them on earlier pages), naturally steeped in the best oils. These are produced in small quantities, often made during fresh truffle season (e.g., Alba white truffles in autumn, Périgord black truffles in the winter). They are batch-specific with short runs, seizing the moment in harvest years that produce the best truffles. An example would be labeled “Limited Edition White Alba Truffle Oil, 2024 Harvest.” Mere mortals are not likely to come across a bottle, since they are sold directly by producers to their best clients.
for $25, this 8-ounce bottle of EVOO is infused with natural black truffle flavor (photo © La Tourangelle).
Continue To Page 11: Truffle Recipes
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