XT PatisserieXuan Ngo was born in Vietnam, grew up in France and has worked for some of the most prestigious patisseries and chocolatiers, from Pâtisserie Lenôtre in Paris to restaurant Daniel in New York, where he learned the art of making fine chocolates under pastry chef François Payard (now proprietor of Pâtisserie Payard). But none of that renders his chocolates worth eating. What does is his ability to balance flavors, textures and even garnishes; everything is about getting the proportions right. His Kalamansi piece, which will surprise you with the tartness of its filling, is made from the puree of a Southeast Asian lime blended with a white chocolate ganache, enrobed in white chocolate. The pretty Caramel Vanilla Fleur de Sel is a half-hemisphere of milk chocolate, with a beautifully-textured caramel interior. You’ll taste the fleur de sel, but it’s not too forward or too retiring.
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