Cheese Glossary

QUARK
Quark is a soft, unripened (fresh) cow’s milk cheese with a consistency and flavor similar to triple-strained Greek yogurt. It has approximately the same amount of calories, but a richer flavor, than lowfat sour cream. Quark is the German word for curds; curds are coagulated milk. Some definitions translate it as “cottage cheese”; however, American and German quark do not resemble what Americans known as cottage cheese, which has recognizable curds. As the curd for each type of cheese is a different shape, size and texture (the curd for Gouda is much different than the curd Cheddar or that for cottage cheese, for example), with quark, the curd consistency is smooth, like curdled milk. Quark, which is produced all over Central Europe, is whipped before packaging. In the U.S. it is made by a handful of artisan dairies and can be found in whole milk, 2% and fat-free versions.

Pasteurization kills many of the natural enzymes and good bacteria in the milk which create flavor complexity, which is why many connoisseurs prefer raw milk (unpasteurized) cheeses. However, despite modern sanitation, raw milk may still harbor a host of disease-causing organisms (pathogens), including listeria and salmonella. A small number Americans become ill each year from raw milk-related causes (and in the past, there have been periodic related fatalities in Europe). Thus, the sale of raw milk cheeses is not allowed in the U.S., except those which have been aged 60 days or longer.

Rennet is a coagulating enzyme that is added to milk as the first step in making cheese. Used to curdle milk, it causes clumps (curds) to form and separate from the liquid (whey). Rennet is added after the cultures and is also integral to the final flavor of the cheese, including the release of peptides, which play an important role in cheese maturation. The traditional source of rennet is the abomasum (fourth stomach or rennet stomach) of slaughtered, milk-fed new-born calves or other young ruminants. It is also possible to produce rennet from fungi.

Recombinant bovine somatotropin (rBST), also called rBGH (recombinant bovine growth hormone), is a growth hormone used to increase milk production in cows. It has been sold in the United States since 1994 and is controversial because it can cause health problems in cows. According to a 2002 survey by the Department of Agriculture, rBST is used in 22% of the nation’s dairy cows. Many health-conscious consumers prefer not to consume dairy products from rBST-treated cows. Currently there is no test that can distinguish between milk from rBST-treated and untreated cows. Controlling the source of the milk is the key to guaranteeing that dairy products are rBST-free. Farmers who do not treat their herds generally label their products ”rBST-free.”

Except for fresh cheeses, the majority of cheeses are ripened in a ripening cellar or special storage room. Cheesemakers often put their cheeses in a drying room to speed up the maturation. The ripening cellar may be humid and warm or relatively cool: temperature, humidity, and the natural movement of air are all critical to the ripening process. While temperatures can range from 32°F to 77°F, most cheeses are ripened between 46°F and 60°F with very high humidity—often close to 100%. During maturation, the cheese dispels liquids; and flavor components develop more complexity. Some cheeses get washed every two to three days to inspire surface bacteria; some grow molds on the outside; others, like cloth-bound cheeses, simply get turned and wiped down every few days.